Last year I was in Luang Namtha and, being interested in seeing more of the country, hired a motor bike to ride a small circuit through the surrounding country. A Chinese woman I met on the trip wanted to go along; she said she had never ridden a motorbike so, rather than rent one, she rode on the back of mine where her main contribution was to scream at each big bump and clutch my shirt on each curve. I had also met a tall Brit who stood out amongst the average backpacker and especially the small statured Lao, literally, being 6′ 8″ and when he heard about my plans to sight-see, rented a bike to do the same circuit. He was young and athletic, whereas I am older and more aware of my capabilities.
So I would putt ahead and stop to take pictures while he caught up. He was a large enough curiosity that, when we stopped in a couple of Black Thai villages (we were lost), woman would hold up their children so they could see this big strange Farang.
Eventually getting back on the paved road when the dirt road we were on petered out into a non-negotiable path, we stopped at one road-side restaurant to get a drink. A broadly smiling Lao man came over to us and motioned us down a side road. Well, he was friendly and slightly drunk so we went along and found out that we had been invited to a wedding - and my friend, being a foot taller than anyone else, was one of the prime attraction. After way, way, way too much rice whiskey in the hot sun, we finally said our goodbyes and best -wishes and got back on the road which seemed much curvier than the first half of the ride.
A few days later, I was in Nong Khiaw, staying at the Riverside Resort (sic?) which, by the way, was the nicest place I’ve ever been in SEA (great bungalows, great food, beautiful view) and was just wandering around the boat landing to see what I could see.
I started talking with a middle-aged Lao man who eventually introduced himself as being responsible for tourism in that area. I invited him for coffee and he told me his entire life history and then ask me to walk down to see his office. After a pleasant time talking, he invited me to his home that evening for a baci ceremony and said I should bring a friend if I could.
I had met a Chinese backpacker on the bus from Luang Namtha and so I invited him along. We showed up with some gifts for the Lao man’s family (that was appropriate and went over well). His entire family was there - wife, parents, in-laws, children, grandchildren - 15 people - and the entire baci unfolded. Hand holding, saying prayers, everyone ties a cotton string on each of my wrists - a strange and moving experience.
After the ceremony and dinner was over, we spent an hour or so talking about our respective families - all channeled thru the tourist chief, who was the only one who spoke Lao and English; his English was limited but, except for one word my Lao was non-existent.
Great time, great food (except for the baked fish that stared at me through the entire meal) and one of the most memorable experiences of my trip.
